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| RORY TRAINING THE WAITRESSES AT HIS OPEN AIR CAFE |
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| BENNY AND I CAUGHT THIS MONSTER TOGETHER |
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| FRANCA, CRISTINA, ANNA AND ZENA AT THE BACKPACKERS HOSTEL |
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| GENEROUS FRANCES & MARTIN |
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| A RARE VIEW OF LOCH NESS |
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| THE LOCKS AT FORT AUGUSTUS |
Actually, I had
already started the Great Glen Way. The official start is in front of Inverness
Castle, which I had passed on my way to Rae and Dave's flat. After saying my
farewells to them, I set off to complete the remaining 72 miles of the 73 mile
route, which ends in Fort William. Being a Saturday, I saw many other walkers
and cyclists on this popular National Trail but, because of the trees, not much
of Loch Ness until I reached Drumnadrochit, where I planned to stay the night.
Along the way I
popped into Rory's Cafe near Woodend, which was actually just a casual
arrangement of tables and chairs under a gazebo in the middle of the maze of trees which
is Rory's croft. He served me lemon and ginger tea while we chatted, chickens
pecking at our feet. Rory shook my hand when I left. I was some way down the
path before I realised I hadn't paid him, so I have donated £2 to the charities
on his behalf instead. Hope that's OK, Rory.
For a small place,
Dromnadrochit buzzes, and the evening became quite social. I chatted to Benny
and his family outside the Loch Ness Monster Visitor Centre. They were on a
break from their Dumbartonshire home. Later I enjoyed the delightful company of
Franca, Cristina, Anna and Zena, who were on an organised mini-bus tour of
Scotland. They were staying at the Loch Ness Backpackers Hostel, but though
there were no rooms spare for me, I was permitted to pitch my tent in the
garden and use the facilities.
Completing various
'admin. duties' meant that I didn't leave the following day until nearly
1.00pm. The threatened rain didn't materialise, but as before there were few
views of Loch Ness. Apart from a pleasant exchange of banter with two Swedes,
Max and Frederick, at the half-way point, the day was uneventful. My intention
had been to reach Fort Augustus, but due to my late start I stopped at
Invermoriston. I was concerned about where to pitch my tent since the only bit
of flat grass in the village had a 'No Camping' sign on it. An enquiry at the
nearby Glenmoriston Arms Hotel revealed that nobody took any notice of this,
but led to an introduction to ex-soldier Martin and his wife Frances. This wonderful
couple insisted I join them for dinner at their expense and then took me to
their home so that I could shower and spend a comfortable night on their sofa.
The following morning Frances cooked me
breakfast before sending me on my way. The walk to Fort Augustus was more of
the same, a good path but rather dull and with limited views, but the town
itself was alive with activity. I enjoyed a lunch-time beer at the lock-side
whilst observing the boats moving through the locks between Loch Ness and the Caledonian
Canal. Indeed, the ensuing canal-side walk was a vast improvement on the
earlier sections of the Great Glen Way. I moved as briskly as my feet would
allow because I was determined to catch up with my schedule, and kept walking
until 9.00pm to reach Clunes. The weather had deteriorated by then, so I
erected my tent in the wet, but greatly appreciated the tin of beef stew Martin
had given me in Invermoriston.
