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| THE CHOIR MUST HAVE POWERFUL VOICES AT THIS STOW CHURCH |
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| WINDMILLS OF YOUR MIND |
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| WALTER SCOTT MEMORIAL ATOP HIGHEST OF EILDON HILLS |
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| WATERLOO MONUMENT |
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| KIND HOSTS STEPH AND MIKE |
Leaving Stow, I
headed southwest climbing the steep flanks of Torsonse Hill. There was a huge
wind farm under construction near the Hareshawhead Plantation. I probably
wouldn't get much support for this from the locals, but I actually find the
windmills attractive, with their sleek towers and beautifully shaped blades,
like sweeping scythes. I wondered if they condemned the windmills in Holland
when they were first built?
After about 8 miles
I came down to Lowood, on the River Tweed between Galashiels and Melrose, and
then followed the route of the Southern Upland Way into Melrose itself. This
was where I had hoped to meet fellow end-to-enders John and Jane again
following our earlier meeting in Fort William. Sadly, a family crisis had
forced them to abandon their walk. I know that this will have been a great
disappointment to them.
I was a little
ahead of schedule, so I lingered a while in this neat and historic town, but
the overlooking Eildon Hills were an even bigger draw. I climbed into them
following the St. Cuthbert's Way path, which passes over the saddle between the
two largest of the three hills. I thought that I might climb one of these
hills, but couldn't decide which. Eventually, I just dropped the rucksack at
the saddle and climbed both - with no weight on my back I practically floated,
so this took less than 30 minutes.
Satisfied, I
continued to follow the St. Cuthbert's Way path to Newtown St. Boswells and
pitched my tent alongside the River Tweed. The location by a beautifully
constructed suspension footbridge was idyllic - and there were no midges.
My riverside walk
continued for a few miles next morning. I bought some provisions in St.
Boswells (a different place to Newtown St. Boswells), then left the river at
Maxton to join Dere Street, the route of an old Roman Road. In the distance
ahead I could see the tower of the Waterloo Monument, dedicated to Wellington's
great achievement in battle. I later turned off Dere Street and climbed up to
the Monument before descending the other side of the hill into Nisbet, where I
had an invitation to stay the night.
My connection to
Mike and Steph, my hosts in Nisbet, was via mutual friends Pete and Rosemary
Yeoman, the later being responsible for making my rucksack banner. Mike and
Steph are a wonderful couple who I warmed to immediately. I felt pampered when
Mike gave me crisps and a lager to enjoy while I bathed, and he later cooked
supper. The subsequent provision of a Glenmorangie ensured I slept well.
A full breakfast
set me up for the following day, and I enjoyed a final cup of tea with Steph on
their patio, with its magnificent countryside views, before bidding farewell to
rejoin the St. Cuthbert's Way path.
The weather was
perfect for walking and I reached my next destination, Kirk Yetholm, by the
early evening. I consumed an excellent beef casserole at the Border Hotel and
chatted to some of the other customers, including Steve and Sue, who I had
bumped into several times during the day. They were following the St.
Cuthbert's Way to it's eventual destination at Lindisfarne.
It was
dark when I finally retreated to the river to pitch my tent. Tomorrow I start
the Pennine Way, Britain's first National Trail, which will take me by a 268
mile route all the way to Edale, near Sheffield.