Thursday 30 July 2009

OSGB GRID REF. NN222816. SPEAN BRIDGE

EVEN HARDENED WILD-CAMPERS NEED A LITTLE COMFORT SOMETIME
READY FOR THE HILLS AT SPEAN BRIDGE - PIPER THE ALSATIAN DECLINES TO JOIN ME
CLEARLY NO HAIRDRESSERS ON WADE'S MILITARY ROAD
FELLOW WALKERS JOHN & JANE
On the morning of Tuesday 28 July it was still raining, so I had little choice but to pack the tent wet - rather unfortunate, since this made it heavier. My feet still ached from the previous day's long walk, but the final march to Fort William, mainly alongside the Caledonian Canal, was short by comparison. 

As I approached the end of the Great Glen, I became aware of the dark imposing presence of Ben Nevis on my left. It still had snow on its southern slopes.

Just as I got to the impressive Neptune's Staircase lock, designed to lift boats a whopping 64 feet, the strap on one of my trekking poles snapped. "Oh bother", said I, or something rather like that. After photographing the monument that signifies the end of the Great Glen Way, I found an Ellis Brigham outdoor shop, where shop assistant Ewan helped me to repair the strap - I do hope Cotswold's won't be demanding the immediate return of their gear for mentioning a competitor. Learning of my trek, I was informed that two other end-to-enders had also visited the shop that day. From their descriptions, I surmised that they were John and Jane White.

I had heard about John and Jane's walking plans when I met a friend of theirs in the Lake District. On exchanging schedules by email, we were amazed to discover that we would be in several locations, including John o'Groats and Land's End, on the same days, even though our routes were quite different. These route differences, and variations in our precise timings, led to us missing each other in John o'Groats, so I was excited to think that we might meet here.

I had planned to have a rest day in Fort William, so initially I visited the Information Office to enquire about accommodation. I then rang John and Jane's mobile number. It turned out that they were sitting in the cafe just opposite.

With accommodation sorted, we shared an evening at the Alexandra Hotel comparing notes. They were heading down the West Highland Way next morning, so I photographed them as they left. Our next meet-up is scheduled for 11 August in Melrose. Let's hope we both make it!

My main source of foot pain had been my little toes, which had the appearance of swollen 'reddies' rather than pinkies. The rest day gave them an opportunity to return to normal size and colour. The remainder of Wednesday was spent writing reports, washing clothes, drying my tent over the bath (what will the hotel management say when they read this?) and purchasing the necessary provisions for my return to the wilds the following day. This time it's the Southern Highlands, essentially between Spean Bridge and Comrie. I am not expecting bogs to be such a problem this time, but the mountains are certainly more serious and crossing streams is always potentially hazardous.

I left the cozy embrace of the Alexandra Hotel at 10.15am this morning and followed one of General Wade's old military roads to Spean Bridge. Just as when I passed through the Flow Country, communications may be difficult for a while, so I am sending this report right now, this afternoon, from Spean Bridge. The plan is to head south east, initially following a mountain track which should take me to the southern end of Loch Treig.......