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| ANNABEL GIVES THE LEG A HELPING HAND |
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| WATERFALL |
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| CUDDY'S CRAGS ON HADRIAN'S WALL |
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| BROOMLEA LOUGH FROM RAPISHAW GAP |
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| CRAG LOUGH ON HADRIAN'S WALL |
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| SYCAMORE GAP NEAR STEEL RIGG |
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| INQUISITIVE LOCAL |
My rest day on
Monday 17 August turned out to be a very full one indeed. Guest House owner Ken
informed me that he and Joy had an arrangement with the nearby Riverdale Hall
Hotel to use their swimming pool and sauna. The Hotel also had an
internet-connected computer for the use of guests so, after breakfast, I made
my way there. Having sorted out all my IT needs, I headed for the pool, pleased
that I had packed my swimming trunks in my rucksack. Next, it was into the
sauna where I met Annabel, who just happened to practise Reiki Therapy at the
Hotel. My shin-splint injury had still not gone away completely, and the rest
of my body felt like it had been walking with a heavy rucksack for a month, so
I booked myself in for a session later that day.
I have an open mind
about the benefits of such alternative therapies, but was determined to use any
feasible method to get myself fit enough to tackle the Yorkshire Three Peaks
Challenge in 9 days time. Annabel was aware of my ambition when she set to work
on me, and I felt quite positive after the hour-long session. Moreover, she
donated half her fee to my charities.
Afterwards, I was
invited to eat supper with her and John Cocker, the Hotel owner. A gathering of
folk musicians calling themselves 'Cross the Wannies' were performing that
night so, following an excellent meal, we were treated to their singing and
playing. They also made a substantial contribution to my charities after John
brought my walk to their attention.
I returned to the
Guest House to find Ken and Joy entertaining four German guests who were on the
final days of a break that involved driving two Minis to an International Mini
Meeting in Birmingham, and back. I didn't know that the Mini had such
international appeal. It was midnight before we all retired to bed.
Next morning's
weather gave ambiguous signals, but soon decided that it was going to rain.
Shortly after leaving Bellingham I found myself tagging along with a family
from Kent on a walking holiday. I welcomed the company as the countryside we
were passing through was relatively dull.
I later marched on
ahead and had my lunch at the northern end of Wark Forrest. It was when I had
passed through the forest that the vistas really opened up with the line of
Hadrian's Wall clearly visible ahead atop the crags.
Having walked the
length of Hadrian's Wall on a previous occasion, I was excited to see it again
from a new angle. The Pennine Way joins the Hadrian's Wall path at Rapishaw Gap
and the two routes coincide for 8 miles. This is the very best part of the Wall
and I enjoyed every moment as I walked along it, especially as the weather had
cleared. The views over the crags are spectacular, particularly from Steel
Rigg, and there is the added interest of the Roman Milecastles and Turrets. You
will note that most of the accompanying pictures are of, or from, the Wall.
I eventually came
to Walltown Quarry, which offered a perfect camp site. I ignored the 'No
Camping' signs and nobody bothered me.
In the morning I
needed provisions so I walked down to Greenhead. The Youth Hostel was
unoccupied and the Cafe closed, so I pushed open the door of the Greenhead
Hotel to find the staff eating their breakfasts. They were happy to cook some
for me too. Suitably refuelled, and with a couple or Mars bars, a packet of
crisps and a packet of peanuts to last me the day, I felt ready to make Alston,
16 miles to the south.
I was sad to be
exchanging the wonderful views from the Wall for much less spectacular and
rather repetitive scenery. I progressed quite quickly to begin with, but I
gradually slowed as boredom set in. By the time I got to Slaggyford I was just
about ready to pack it in for the day. However, I couldn't possibly stay at a
place with such an awful sounding name. Alston was still 5 miles away and I was
beginning to lose the will to live. I was saved by the realisation that the
South Tyne Trail also connects Slaggyford to Alston by a much quicker route
which is almost level and almost direct, since it follows the route of an old
railway line. Note that I don't use the word 'disused', because I shortly found
myself walking alongside the rails of narrow-gauge railway which was clearly in
use, presumably for leisure purposes. My walk led me right into picturesque
Alston Station. The boredom had left me by then.
Alston had all the
facilities I required to enjoy a beer and a meal, and replenish my food stocks
for the following day. On the advice of the publican at The Turk's Head, who
gave me a Highland Malt Whisky nightcap on the house, I pitched my tent down by
the River South Tyne. It wasn't raining for a change.