Monday 5 October 2009

OSGB GRID REF. SW628263. PORTHLEVEN

SATELLITE DISH AT GOONHILLY
CADGWITH HARBOUR
LIZARD LIGHTHOUSE FROM LIZARD POINT
VIEW FROM LIZARD POINT
MULLION HOLIDAY PARK LET ME CAMP FOR FREE
PORTHLEVEN HARBOUR
Isn't it strange how things often come to you just when you need them? The first heavy overnight rainfall for a while, and I was tucked up under a corrugated steel roof in Mr Hall's storeroom. Noisy, but dry. More importantly, I was spared the dubious pleasure of having to pack away a wet tent. 

The rain continued during the morning as I headed south through Stithians and Rame. By lunchtime I'd reached Gweek, which sounds like a Jonathan Ross attempt to describe Zorba's nationality. 

It was Sunday, so I decided to treat myself to a carvery dinner at The Gweek Inn. Rosemary's rucksack banner ensured that my cover was blown the moment I entered the establishment; I received a charity donation within moments. Not only that, the Inn waived payment for my food and drinks bill. That's the second time in two successive days that I haven't paid for my meal! I am delighted to be the recipient of such kindness but feel the charities should benefit too, so I will donate part of the value to the fund. 

After Gweek, I wanted to have a close look at the large satellite communications dishes at Goonhilly Earth Station. I had intended to use a path that starts from Mawgan and passes over Trelowarren, but this turned out to be a permissive one and the landowners had rescinded their permission on 1 Oct. I was not impressed. The resulting 2 mile detour cost me nearly an hour. 

By the time I got to Goonhilly I had formulated a plan. Part one of the plan involved quick-marching southwest across the Goonhilly Downs to a campsite near Mullion. When I got there, however, I thought the campsite looked distinctly grotty. It was 7.15pm and the light was going so there wasn't much time for a re-think. Fortunately, the much nicer Mullion Holiday Park was just next door and they let me stay for free. 

Part two of my plan involved leaving most of my gear at the campsite next morning so that I could walk the 10 miles to Lizard Point and back with minimal weight. It rained heavily for the second night running and this continued into the morning. No worries. I simply donned my wet gear, left the tent where it was and exited the campsite by a short-cut that staff member Paul had shown me the previous night. This took me to a back road south of the Holiday Park. From there I headed to Lizard Point, but not directly as I'd decided to visit the pretty fishing village Cadgwith along the way. 

When I got to Lizard Point I took the usual celebratory photographs and then popped into the cafe for a celebratory pot of tea and a bit of celebratory carrot cake. Just to remind those who have just joined the blog, Lizard Point is the most southerly point in Britain and Dunnet Head the most northerly. As the crow flies, these points are 4 miles further apart than John o'Groats to Land's End, hence the reason why I have included them on my trek. Thus, I have now completed a walk between the two most distant points in mainland Britain. It'll now take me just a few more days to get to Land's End to complete the better known but slightly less extreme walk. Lesson over. 

By the time I'd walked back to the Holiday Park, the rain had stopped, the sun was shining and my tent was dry. Packing my gear, I headed west to join the South West Coast Path at Poldhu Cove. At last, I was walking a proper footpath again and my feet immediately seemed lighter. My appreciation of Cornwall's exciting sport of dodging traffic had worn very thin by now. Besides, it is difficult to appreciate the country views when most of one's attention is focussed upon staying alive. 

The South West Coast Path is probably the most consistently attractive long-distance trail in Britain. Because the tide was coming in, I stuck to the cliff top trail rather than walk along the beach, except where the trail cut across Loe Bar. By 6.00pm I was in Porthleven. I was due a rest day, but didn't even enquire about B&B prices as I knew they would be painfully expensive. In any case, I found a nice little camp site in Mill Lane just a short walk from the harbour.

My friends are expecting me to arrive at Land's End at midday on Friday 9 October, but I am well ahead of schedule and in danger of getting there before them. Not a problem. With stunning coastal views to enjoy, I'm sure I can drag my feet a little over the next few days.