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| LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL'S THREE SPIRES |
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| MIKE AND TOMMY (TOMMY HAS FOUR LEGS) |
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| MAGNIFICENT MACHINE AT HINTS GRAVEL PIT |
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| CAMPED NEAR DOG & DOUBLET |
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| BROKEN POLE - BROKEN HEART |
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| KINGSWOOD CANAL JUNCTION |
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| ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST CHURCH, HENLEY-IN-ARDEN |
Shortly after I
woke up in the garden of The Park Gate Inn, Louise, who had arrived to perform
her cleaning duties, opened the back door and brought me a coffee.
By 8.30pm I was
back on the Heart of England Way (HoEW), although I didn't follow it very
precisely because it seemed to head off in some daft directions for no obvious
reason other than to add distance. I arrived in Lichfield before 11.00am and
was immediately impressed by the Cathedral's three spires: that's just greedy,
isn't it? I really liked Lichfield. It had a good feel to it.
After scoffing a Boots 'Meal Deal', I walked through a housing estate to the south of Lichfield and found myself talking to Mike, who interrupted his gardening duties to invite me in for coffee. The weather was the best I'd seen for a while, so I dug out the neglected sunglasses and rubbed on the sun screen while we chatted on his patio.
I reached Drayton Bassett just after 4.00pm with the expectation that I could get a refreshing drink. I noticed a banner saying 'Garden Now Open' but couldn't see any obvious signs of an associated drinking establishment. Some chatty locals assured me that there definitely was one, but didn't seem to know when it opened.
Rather than lose more time, I continued south, ambling my way along the towpath of the Birmingham and Fazeley Canal until I reached the Dog and Doublet pub. It's location by a canal lock was idyllic. I erected my tent on the other side of the lock and then ordered my food, which I ate outside in the evening sun.
I got to sleep early because the following day, 8 September, I needed to be clear-headed for my 6.45am live telephone interview with Julian Clegg on his BBC Radio Solent Breakfast Show.
After scoffing a Boots 'Meal Deal', I walked through a housing estate to the south of Lichfield and found myself talking to Mike, who interrupted his gardening duties to invite me in for coffee. The weather was the best I'd seen for a while, so I dug out the neglected sunglasses and rubbed on the sun screen while we chatted on his patio.
I reached Drayton Bassett just after 4.00pm with the expectation that I could get a refreshing drink. I noticed a banner saying 'Garden Now Open' but couldn't see any obvious signs of an associated drinking establishment. Some chatty locals assured me that there definitely was one, but didn't seem to know when it opened.
Rather than lose more time, I continued south, ambling my way along the towpath of the Birmingham and Fazeley Canal until I reached the Dog and Doublet pub. It's location by a canal lock was idyllic. I erected my tent on the other side of the lock and then ordered my food, which I ate outside in the evening sun.
I got to sleep early because the following day, 8 September, I needed to be clear-headed for my 6.45am live telephone interview with Julian Clegg on his BBC Radio Solent Breakfast Show.
Afterwards, Jim,
landlord of the Dog and Doublet, opened his doors early to let me into the pub
and gave me coffee and a huge egg and bacon sandwich to set me up for the day.
I continued alongside the Canal, picking up the HoEW again, then switching to the Centenary Way, then back to the HoEW. Even I'm getting confused now!
I left both designated footpaths completely to visit Meriden, where the original Triumph motorcycles were made, including the T110 that I owned when I was 17. Ah, nostalgia. I wanted to pay homage at the site of the old factory, but it turned out to be 2 miles to the east of the town. I wasn't that nostalgic, so I headed south to rejoin the HoEW near Berkswell.
That was when it happened. Tragedy. I noticed that one of my trekking poles was bent, so I tried to ease it straight again. "I didn't mean to do it; honest Guv, it just fell apart in me 'ands." Normally, such a dramatic shock would spontaneously produce some profane utterance. But no, not me, not now, for my walking experiences have helped me to develop an inner calmness, and the ability to think before I speak. So I thought about it and then uttered a profanity.
Obviously, I can live without the broken pole. I have completed two thirds of my walk and the remaining third is relatively flat. However, I will miss it because I have gotten used to it, and having two poles does take some of the pressure of the heavy rucksack off of my knees.
I continued my way, heartbroken, to a pub called Ye Olde Saracen's Head in a village called Balsall Street. Manager Brett cheered me up when he let me pitch my tent in the garden and eat two main meals for the price of one. Burp.
The weather has been great again. My feet are dry and I'm running out of sun screen.
I slept late on Wednesday morning waiting for the Saracen's Head to open (sounds messy, that). A nice surprise awaited me when Brett gave me a coffee and a comprehensive packed lunch for the day. I followed the HoEW for a short while, but then deviated onto the towpath of the much more interesting Grand Union Canal. This led to the fascinating lock system at Kingswood Junction where the Grand Union meets the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal.
I continued alongside the Canal, picking up the HoEW again, then switching to the Centenary Way, then back to the HoEW. Even I'm getting confused now!
I left both designated footpaths completely to visit Meriden, where the original Triumph motorcycles were made, including the T110 that I owned when I was 17. Ah, nostalgia. I wanted to pay homage at the site of the old factory, but it turned out to be 2 miles to the east of the town. I wasn't that nostalgic, so I headed south to rejoin the HoEW near Berkswell.
That was when it happened. Tragedy. I noticed that one of my trekking poles was bent, so I tried to ease it straight again. "I didn't mean to do it; honest Guv, it just fell apart in me 'ands." Normally, such a dramatic shock would spontaneously produce some profane utterance. But no, not me, not now, for my walking experiences have helped me to develop an inner calmness, and the ability to think before I speak. So I thought about it and then uttered a profanity.
Obviously, I can live without the broken pole. I have completed two thirds of my walk and the remaining third is relatively flat. However, I will miss it because I have gotten used to it, and having two poles does take some of the pressure of the heavy rucksack off of my knees.
I continued my way, heartbroken, to a pub called Ye Olde Saracen's Head in a village called Balsall Street. Manager Brett cheered me up when he let me pitch my tent in the garden and eat two main meals for the price of one. Burp.
The weather has been great again. My feet are dry and I'm running out of sun screen.
I slept late on Wednesday morning waiting for the Saracen's Head to open (sounds messy, that). A nice surprise awaited me when Brett gave me a coffee and a comprehensive packed lunch for the day. I followed the HoEW for a short while, but then deviated onto the towpath of the much more interesting Grand Union Canal. This led to the fascinating lock system at Kingswood Junction where the Grand Union meets the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal.
I enjoyed chatting to several canal-boaters as I continued down the Stratford Canal, but had to slow my pace so they could keep up with me. The kind owners of 'Rick o'Shea' gave me a cold lager, which was most welcome in the heat of the day.
After a short distance I picked up the HoEW again which would take me to Henley-in-Arden. Just before I got there I crossed a hill, which was called Motte and Bailey on the map; clearly named after a comedy duo!
I stopped briefly in the main street of Henley-in-Arden for an ice cream and a cider, and noted the unusual lozenge-shaped clock attached asymmetrically to the tower of the St. John the Baptist church (see picture). Can't understand why the fifteenth century church builders didn't anticipate this requirement and leave a proper space for it.
Since it was only 5.00pm, I decided to walk on a bit further. Big mistake, as I ended up in the small village of Great Alne. Whatever great ambitions this place might have had were clearly unrealised. The only pub in the village, which went by the peculiar name of 'The Mother Huff Cap', was in a severe state of decay. A caretaker manager was in place while the owners sought a buyer, so there was no food available. I was at least able to console myself with a drink and a chat with some locals before I retired to my tent, pitched in the unkempt garden.