Thursday 3 September 2009

OSGB GRID REF. SK355861. SHEFFIELD

ROCKY VIEW NEAR STANDEDGE
FELLOW JOGLERS JAS & STU
AFFECTIONATE ROCKS - THE WAIN STONES
LUNCH TIME WITH STU & JAS
ME BEING A HERO AT KINDER LOW
HELPING PETER AND JIM ON MY REST DAY
Someone was aware that I was sleeping on North West Water property because, when I exited the tent in the morning, I noticed that the previously closed gate had been latched open! The rain had ceased and the fog had cleared so, with plenty of daylight hours ahead, continuing across the moor was no longer a concern.

Some 8 miles to the south, near Standedge, I met Australian couple Stu and Jas who also happened to be walking from John o'Groats to Land's End. After 5 years of working in London, they had put their careers on hold and their possessions in storage to pursue this adventure. They are raising money for the Alzheimer's Society and although their progress had been slower than mine, in many other respects their route objectives were remarkably similar; avoiding roads, wild-camping and following unmarked trails through the wilderness areas of Scotland.

It was great to have some company as we walked together, assisting each other with navigation. I ended up some distance ahead when they got chatting to another walker near Black Hill, but we got back together again at the campsite in Crowden, our final destination for the day. We had plenty of information to share as we ate our suppers together.

We were greeted by the sun on Tuesday morning, enabling me to dry some of my damp gear at last. Completion of the Pennine Way was now in sight. Edale, the southern end, was just 16 miles away so we expected to get there by early evening. Stu and Jas left the campsite first with the expectation that I would catch them up later that day because I was a slightly faster walker. They lost time after making a significant route-finding error, however, so I caught them much sooner than expected, just south of Bleaklow Head, where the fascinating 'kissing' Wain Stones are located (see picture). We remained in sight of each other for the remainder of the walk, although I hung back to don my waterproofs when I saw the huge black storm clouds awaiting us on our approach to the Kinder Scout plateau. Just as well for me, for when the thunder and lightning started, Stu and Jas were right in the thick of it. Being on the hills in an electrical storm can be very dangerous, with Stu later expressing his concern at being so close to the centre. I wasn't too thrilled at the prospect of seeing my new friends getting toasted either.

The brief storm passed and we continued our walk around Kinder Scout's western peripheral ridge, passing Kinder Downfall where the channelled wind was driving the waterfall upwards, against gravity, and deviating from the path a little to visit the moon-landscape which is the summit of Kinder Low. The final decent down Jacob's Ladder eventually led us to the traditional end of the Pennine Way, the Nag's Head Inn in Edale. We all shared a brief celebratory drink and exchanged contact details before I had to say farewell, hoping that we might meet again further south. I had arranged to meet my friend Jim at the Peak Hotel in Castleton, and this required me to cross one further hill before it got dark. Jim was there waiting when I arrived a little before 9.00pm and we drove directly to the comfort of his home in Sheffield, where I would spend a couple of rest days.

Jim had brought a box of my spare equipment to Sheffield, so I was able to exchange my worn Scarpa boots for a pair of nearly new, but worn-in, Brasher Hillmasters. I also had the opportunity to review what else I needed for the remainder of the walk and dispense with anything I could do without. I decided that in the well-populated south, and given the summer temperatures, I could do without the cooking stove and its associated gas. I also exchanged the Katadyn water filter for a simpler filter bottle given to me by Pure Hydration.

During my stay in Sheffield Jim introduced me to some of his friends. On Wednesday I helped him and pal Peter move a large machine tool to Peter's house. During the car journey, Peter, a keen and knowledgeable local historian, educated me about Sheffield's industrial history. At Jim's local Social Club I was introduced to businessman, motorcyclist and runner Michael Wright, who made a very generous donation to my charities. Thanks Michael. I'll do my best to keep up the literary standard for you.

The break gave my feet a chance to recover from having been in damp shoes and socks for several days, as they looked like they were suffering from the first stages of trenchfoot. Jim's kind attention had restored me both physically and psychologically, but all too soon it was time leave. However, as I prepared for bed on Thursday evening, I felt enthusiastic to restart my southward journey next morning.